Advice on panoramics

[jimcritchley]

Exactly as it says in the title. I am interested in trying some panoramic and would like some info on technique, photoshop included. Thanks.

[jypsee]

you need at least two exposures, but three or more is better. You need to keep the camera level and overlap up to 1/3 of the frame in each exposure so that you can blend the exposures in post process. Your exposures need to be consistent from frame to frame, so you may want to set an exposure manually and use it for each frame. You can make either a horizontal or vertical exposure to use in making your panorama. It's better to use RAW format so that you can more easily fix/match/manipulate the exposure in post processing.
In PS you just choose the photomerge process and the select your exposures and run photomerge; use "advanced blending" to make the frames blend more evenly. Then, when photomerge finishes it's process you may need to do some cloning and so forth to fix anything that photomerge can't accomplish. You'll probably need to crop off any uneven edges, and so forth to make a finished panorama.
That's the quick rundown.... good luck.
Here's one I did recently
http://www.pbase.com/jypsee/image/85119936

[pinemikey]

For those who don't want to pay down the price of a camera for Photoshop, there is a excellent free program, developed by a couple of computer geniuses in Vancouver, BC, called Autostitch.

I agree with Gypsy that two to three images with a 1/3rd overlap are best. I try to aim at 1250 px wide to balance with a single image without horizontal scrolling but still about 450 px vertical for good definition. I have a few images where you scroll yourself into a circle in order to catch a view. The alternative is to be stuck with a Pbase compression into 800px. The result is predicable, a 200px high or less image that is fitted to 800px wide with the "large" Pbase setting. Sometimes the details are worth the scrolling, but most times we all want to feel the scene from one viewpoint without having to scroll back and forth.

I have a bunch of panos at http://www.pbase.com/pinemikey/panoramas
Actually maybe too many, time to go heartless and try a trim the galleries.

[heinsite]

If you start to get serious about panorama work, and/or don't have access to Photoshop CS2/3, have a look at PTGui photo stitching software. It does an excellent job in all types of situations.

Caution - Blatant self-promotion alert...

I have a gallery of PTGui examples of my own at: http://www.pbase.com/heinsite/panoramas

Dave.

[jimcritchley]

Thanks for the tips, will give it a go

[barry_2718]

I really enjoy making the panoramas. You can achieve the same effect as an UWA with care in the taking of the originals. I have used Arcsoft panorama maker 3 which came with one of my cameras. I recently bought a 2Gb Compact flash and version 4 was shipped with the card!. You can make horizontal , vertical or a mosaic. You can chose auto correction for exposure and lens, and you can fine tune the overlap points after the autostitch. I usually use the auto everything and then just fine tune the overlap points.
Allow a generous overlap and if handheld, decide on the overlap feature in the distance and then rotate the camera body in your hand rather than your body. This helps get the perspective correct. For a horizontal panorama hold the camera in a vertial axis or you get more distortion when stitched i.e don't point down or up.
Be creative, in my auditorium shots I like to get the next presenter at least twice in the pano, once on the way to the front and then at the front of the auditorium. Have a look at my latest image made from 3 pictures. Rotated through about 90 degrees. The weir should be straight!


regards Barry

[madlights]

I've tried a few, some retail. I couldn't believe some of the shots that I took that Autostitch put together...and it's free...as Mike says.

[billrobinson]

G'day Jim,
Here's a few tips I've learned along the way.

Shoot pano's in portrait. There's less shift in exposure between images.

If you have an exposure lock button use it for the series of images you're going to stitch. Better yet , meter on the centre area of the pano and then dial the settings in on manual.
It's a good idea to select the appropriate white balance too. It'll avoid shifts that can occur in auto mode.

If you're shooting handheld try a few dummy runs, like a golfer taking practice swings and where possible use any horizon to help keep the pano level.

Overlap each image by at least 30% and up to 50%.

You'll find the best results from pano's taken from 50mm and out.
Not easy getting a wide angle pano to stitch without some ghosting.

A Queensland pro, Russell Stewart, has a blog that explains how rotating about the nodal point of the lens makes for improved results.
http://russellspixelpix.blogspot.com/2007/06/tip-7-panoramas-on-cheap.html
As you'll see from the blog archives, he does ramble on a bit.

I just recently put together a pano head from a macro rail and bracket.
This is the result from the first attempt......

[careysb]

The shorter (wide angle) the lens the more it has some pincushion and barrel distortion. This makes it difficult for automated stitchers to accurately find the seems and blend them. Use a medium to longer focal length lens.

Shoot with the horizon in the middle of picture, this way the result stays pretty rectangular. Otherwise, the stitched result will tend to curve up or down. After it's all stitched, then crop to the rule of thirds if you want.

Shoot manual mode with no polarizer. Other wise the brightness and/or focus my vary from frame to frame.

CS3 seems to be much better than CS2 at stitching. I've also used "Image Assembler".

photos at http://www.pbase.com/careysb/panorams
Carey