I will be off to visit Angkot Wat and Siem Reap for the last week of Dec. Any advise on what to do and not to do? Is it advisable to hire a guide or is wandering alone (with my girl) a better plan?
Any hints, especially on avoiding too many fellow tourists?
Board index ‹ Other ‹ Travel ‹ Off to Angkor Wat (Siem Reap)
Travel
Off to Angkor Wat (Siem Reap)
9 posts • Page 1 of 1
- Posts: 752
Sun Jan 04, 2004 10:59 am
Before leaving
Get your visa at home. Though it’s possible to get a visa upon arrival in Siem Reap, that’s what the whole planeload of people do and why wait for two hours in sweltering heat if you can waltz past the queue?
US dollars are good, and get lots of US$1 bills. Most vendors won’t break larger notes – and you don’t want to be flashing a wad around. Also, US$1 is a good tip if you want one of the locals/kids to pose for you.
Bring passport photos. You’ll need these for the tourist pass to the sites. These can be bought in 1- 3- and 5-day durations. These cost US$20, US$40 and US$60 respectively. The guide will arrange these for you on the first day.
Lots of T-shirts. The humidity is oppressive, and you’ll find yourself changing shirts two to three times a day. Leave the evening gown at home, there’s nothing of that sort in Siem Reap anyway. Casual is the way to go, and sensible shoes and shorts/light trousers are much more useful. A torch also helps (especially for sunrise / sunset situations).
Lots of film. Although 35mm film is readily available in Siem Reap, I’m not sure of just how good it is given it’s been left out in the sun most of the time. Better play safe and bring your own.
Reference material:
I found the Lonely Planet Guide to Cambodia to be OK, but the one that was of real use (to me at least) was “Angkor” by Dawn Rooney (Odyssey Publications).
Get your visa at home. Though it’s possible to get a visa upon arrival in Siem Reap, that’s what the whole planeload of people do and why wait for two hours in sweltering heat if you can waltz past the queue?
US dollars are good, and get lots of US$1 bills. Most vendors won’t break larger notes – and you don’t want to be flashing a wad around. Also, US$1 is a good tip if you want one of the locals/kids to pose for you.
Bring passport photos. You’ll need these for the tourist pass to the sites. These can be bought in 1- 3- and 5-day durations. These cost US$20, US$40 and US$60 respectively. The guide will arrange these for you on the first day.
Lots of T-shirts. The humidity is oppressive, and you’ll find yourself changing shirts two to three times a day. Leave the evening gown at home, there’s nothing of that sort in Siem Reap anyway. Casual is the way to go, and sensible shoes and shorts/light trousers are much more useful. A torch also helps (especially for sunrise / sunset situations).
Lots of film. Although 35mm film is readily available in Siem Reap, I’m not sure of just how good it is given it’s been left out in the sun most of the time. Better play safe and bring your own.
Reference material:
I found the Lonely Planet Guide to Cambodia to be OK, but the one that was of real use (to me at least) was “Angkor” by Dawn Rooney (Odyssey Publications).
- Posts: 752
Sun Jan 04, 2004 11:00 am
The Lowdown
It’s all about getting private guides. They’re not expensive, and these can be arranged by the hotel. Basically, you get a guide and a driver, and you set the itinerary, with suggestions from the guide. They’re all licensed by the Government and do this all the time, so it’s safe – and bloody convenient.
We were there in November; the weather is hot, and humid. And surprisingly, the low season. Which means that there are only about 500-3,000 tourists wandering the various sites – whereas in high season that number can peak at 15,000!
Usually a typical day is split into two sightseeing sessions – an early morning start (early enough to catch sunrise if you wish) until late morning, whereupon it’s customary to return to the hotel (and change the first of your sopping wet T-shirts for a dry one) when it starts getting bloody hot and sun-baked. Most of the temples are in the wide open, so no refuge nor shade from the sun. The second session starts mid-afternoon, and usually runs until sunset. All this is utterly flexible, and as far as the guide is concerned, you are the boss. So feel free to change things around – you’ve hired him for the entire day, so if you insist on being the mad dog and going out in the midday sun, then it’s your prerogative.
It’s all about getting private guides. They’re not expensive, and these can be arranged by the hotel. Basically, you get a guide and a driver, and you set the itinerary, with suggestions from the guide. They’re all licensed by the Government and do this all the time, so it’s safe – and bloody convenient.
We were there in November; the weather is hot, and humid. And surprisingly, the low season. Which means that there are only about 500-3,000 tourists wandering the various sites – whereas in high season that number can peak at 15,000!
Usually a typical day is split into two sightseeing sessions – an early morning start (early enough to catch sunrise if you wish) until late morning, whereupon it’s customary to return to the hotel (and change the first of your sopping wet T-shirts for a dry one) when it starts getting bloody hot and sun-baked. Most of the temples are in the wide open, so no refuge nor shade from the sun. The second session starts mid-afternoon, and usually runs until sunset. All this is utterly flexible, and as far as the guide is concerned, you are the boss. So feel free to change things around – you’ve hired him for the entire day, so if you insist on being the mad dog and going out in the midday sun, then it’s your prerogative.
- Posts: 752
Sun Jan 04, 2004 11:01 am
And now for the sights
Must do
Angkor complex (including Angkor Wat)
Sprawling complex, usually stuffed to the gills with tourists in late afternoon hoping to hang around for the sunset. Only the bravest climb to the top of Angkor Wat itself, so it’s worth doing if only to get away from the hordes of ancient Japanese tourists. Spend some time on the periphery of the lowest level admiring the bas-reliefs and sculptures, and also muck around the outer grounds – plenty of great photo opportunities of Angkor reflected in the shallow pools in the grounds, as well as portrait shots of the monks rambling around. Great apsara carvings inside the outer wall. The Elephant Terrace takes all of five minutes, and unfortunately the Baphuon is off-limits as it’s being put back together piece by piece, like a giant jigsaw. For me, the only place worth spending time is…
The Bayon
Mystical, amazing, intricate, gorgeous. And worth visiting several times at different times of the day to truly appreciate this temple. It pales somewhat when you realize that it was built around 1,000AD – the same time some Frenchmen were assembling Notre Dame (which IMHO is far grander if you consider the scale and work involved). Take a quick recce midday, but it’s worth checking out when NOBODY is around at the crack of dawn, when the mist lifts from the surrounding jungle to give that clam, tranquil atmosphere it must have had in its heyday. Stop by after witnessing sunrise on…
Phnom Baekheng
Go for sunrise. Most people go there for sunset, which means that it’s more crowded than the front row at a Def Leppard concert (and just as sweaty). You’ll be only one of a dozen or so at sunrise, and it’s just as beautiful. Trust me. If you want to witness a sunset (and you should), go to…
Ta Keo
An unfinished, steep and rough-hewn temple, it’s one of the tallest around and again a totally deserted place from which to appreciate a decent sunset. Take care descending at dusk, but it’s doable.
Ta Prohm
Most people go to this, the classic Tomb Raider location, in the late afternoon. Which means it’s crowded beyond appreciation. This place is leafy and sheltered, so going at midday (when everyone is in the safety of the hotel) is fine, and you’ll get a chance to clamber around the place without too many people straying into your sightline.
Banteay Srei
This is a small, yet intricately carved temple. Butt-numbingly far away (well, not too bad) – the roads don’t make for an easy ride but it’s worth visiting for carvings that are more delicate than the mainstream temples – and hence it’s name as the Ladies’ Temple.
Must do
Angkor complex (including Angkor Wat)
Sprawling complex, usually stuffed to the gills with tourists in late afternoon hoping to hang around for the sunset. Only the bravest climb to the top of Angkor Wat itself, so it’s worth doing if only to get away from the hordes of ancient Japanese tourists. Spend some time on the periphery of the lowest level admiring the bas-reliefs and sculptures, and also muck around the outer grounds – plenty of great photo opportunities of Angkor reflected in the shallow pools in the grounds, as well as portrait shots of the monks rambling around. Great apsara carvings inside the outer wall. The Elephant Terrace takes all of five minutes, and unfortunately the Baphuon is off-limits as it’s being put back together piece by piece, like a giant jigsaw. For me, the only place worth spending time is…
The Bayon
Mystical, amazing, intricate, gorgeous. And worth visiting several times at different times of the day to truly appreciate this temple. It pales somewhat when you realize that it was built around 1,000AD – the same time some Frenchmen were assembling Notre Dame (which IMHO is far grander if you consider the scale and work involved). Take a quick recce midday, but it’s worth checking out when NOBODY is around at the crack of dawn, when the mist lifts from the surrounding jungle to give that clam, tranquil atmosphere it must have had in its heyday. Stop by after witnessing sunrise on…
Phnom Baekheng
Go for sunrise. Most people go there for sunset, which means that it’s more crowded than the front row at a Def Leppard concert (and just as sweaty). You’ll be only one of a dozen or so at sunrise, and it’s just as beautiful. Trust me. If you want to witness a sunset (and you should), go to…
Ta Keo
An unfinished, steep and rough-hewn temple, it’s one of the tallest around and again a totally deserted place from which to appreciate a decent sunset. Take care descending at dusk, but it’s doable.
Ta Prohm
Most people go to this, the classic Tomb Raider location, in the late afternoon. Which means it’s crowded beyond appreciation. This place is leafy and sheltered, so going at midday (when everyone is in the safety of the hotel) is fine, and you’ll get a chance to clamber around the place without too many people straying into your sightline.
Banteay Srei
This is a small, yet intricately carved temple. Butt-numbingly far away (well, not too bad) – the roads don’t make for an easy ride but it’s worth visiting for carvings that are more delicate than the mainstream temples – and hence it’s name as the Ladies’ Temple.
- Posts: 752
Sun Jan 04, 2004 11:02 am
Should do
Neak Pean
The ancient Khmer spa. On the way to Banteay Srei, so schedule this quick stop on the way.
Preah Khan
Another ruined complex that’s almost been swallowed by the jungle. Usually it’s walked west-east, from the front entrance – but if you do it in reverse (ask the guide to walk you through from the east gate) it’s less crowded. Also, being reasonably sheltered, you can do this at midday when the hordes are less likely to be swarming around the place. You’ve probably gotten the idea that I’m not a people person (not far from the truth) – but for amazing images of ruined temples, you have to avoid the crowds.
Can do
Prasat Kravan, Sra Srang, Preah Rup
More temples that are worthwhile seeing, but no biggie if you miss out.
Tonle Sap
The BIG lake. Really far away and will take an entire day, but good if you want to see fishing boats, floating villages, and something that hearkens back to life on the water from the old days.
Suggested Itinerary:
Day One:
Angkor Thom. Kick off at the South Gate, have a look around (15min), then go to the Bayon for a recce. Walk to the Elephant Terrace from there, stopping by to look at the Baphuon (from afar) and the Terrace of the Leper King. You should be done in time for lunch, and then aim to return to Angkor Wat (for the complex proper) in the afternoon. Top it off with sunset at Ta Keo.
Day Two:
Sunrise at Phnom Baekheng, then head back to The Bayon (trust me!). I’d suggest doing Ta Prohm during lunchtime and head back to the hotel for a late lunch.
Day Three:
Banteay Srei (via Neak Pean), and then on the way back check out Prasat Kravan, Sra Srang, Preah Rup. Do Preah Khan in the afternoon. And then if you’re up for it, do sunset at Angkor Wat.
Enjoy!
Photos right here.
Neak Pean
The ancient Khmer spa. On the way to Banteay Srei, so schedule this quick stop on the way.
Preah Khan
Another ruined complex that’s almost been swallowed by the jungle. Usually it’s walked west-east, from the front entrance – but if you do it in reverse (ask the guide to walk you through from the east gate) it’s less crowded. Also, being reasonably sheltered, you can do this at midday when the hordes are less likely to be swarming around the place. You’ve probably gotten the idea that I’m not a people person (not far from the truth) – but for amazing images of ruined temples, you have to avoid the crowds.
Can do
Prasat Kravan, Sra Srang, Preah Rup
More temples that are worthwhile seeing, but no biggie if you miss out.
Tonle Sap
The BIG lake. Really far away and will take an entire day, but good if you want to see fishing boats, floating villages, and something that hearkens back to life on the water from the old days.
Suggested Itinerary:
Day One:
Angkor Thom. Kick off at the South Gate, have a look around (15min), then go to the Bayon for a recce. Walk to the Elephant Terrace from there, stopping by to look at the Baphuon (from afar) and the Terrace of the Leper King. You should be done in time for lunch, and then aim to return to Angkor Wat (for the complex proper) in the afternoon. Top it off with sunset at Ta Keo.
Day Two:
Sunrise at Phnom Baekheng, then head back to The Bayon (trust me!). I’d suggest doing Ta Prohm during lunchtime and head back to the hotel for a late lunch.
Day Three:
Banteay Srei (via Neak Pean), and then on the way back check out Prasat Kravan, Sra Srang, Preah Rup. Do Preah Khan in the afternoon. And then if you’re up for it, do sunset at Angkor Wat.
Enjoy!
Photos right here.
- Moderator
- Posts: 2321
- Location: Amsterdam
Mon Jan 05, 2004 4:01 am
Thanks anyway framewerkz.
"Angkor" by Dawn Rooney was indeed a life saver. With that book, I was also able to avoid hiring a guide since I am a Hindu and knew most of the mythological interpretations of the bas reliefs. Whenever I had some doubt I just hung around that place and eavesdropped on some group's guide's explanations
"Angkor" by Dawn Rooney was indeed a life saver. With that book, I was also able to avoid hiring a guide since I am a Hindu and knew most of the mythological interpretations of the bas reliefs. Whenever I had some doubt I just hung around that place and eavesdropped on some group's guide's explanations
- Posts: 1
Siem Reap and Cambodia
Mon Feb 14, 2005 5:28 pm
Is it really necessary to take Anti Malaria Drugs while travelling here?
- Moderator
- Posts: 2321
- Location: Amsterdam
Re: Siem Reap and Cambodia
Mon Feb 14, 2005 10:06 pm
dmody wrote:Is it really necessary to take Anti Malaria Drugs while travelling here?
We didn't, though I am not sure if it is an "Asian" thing.
9 posts • Page 1 of 1
Board index ‹ Other ‹ Travel ‹ Off to Angkor Wat (Siem Reap)
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest